Bleaching techniques

Natural, shiny blonde or beautiful, deep brunette? We often think about updating our look, but how to go about it? Will adding some highlights do the trick? But which technique to choose?

The modern-day trends follow very natural outcomes, not depending on the preferred method. But what should you consider when choosing a tone? How do you keep that tone vibrant at home? How to regain a healthy and shiny hair?

Here we go through some of the most popular and current bleaching techniques, discuss about the chemical processes of bleaching and give some tips on how to choose your hair color.

At Nuvo, we dare to say that we are experts of blondes and bleaching. Using different techniques, bleaching takes over 90% of our spent time in the salon.

ABC of bleaching

​Hair bleaching is a chemical dye technique that strips the color from the hair. The process begins with a combination of alkaline and oxidative agents opening the hair cuticle and dissolving the hair's natural melanin or artificial color pigments.

Big molecule pigments, such as red, orange and yellow will surface when starting the process and how light will they end up becoming depends on how much pigment is in the hair. Going from jet black to platinum is rarely done in one sitting, but rather multiple visits to the salon, until there is no big molecule pigments left in the hair.

This is the reason why going from dark to blonde often means having warmer tones before the process is complete. It is good to understand this before starting any bleaching process.

Balayage

You have probably heard of Balayage before, and it is definitely here to stay. The word origins from a French word that means “to sweep.” In this technique, highlights are hand-painted on the surface of sections of hair, starting midshaft, lifting slightly up towards the root area and becoming denser as it moves down the section to the ends. The desired effect is a natural sun-kissed glow.
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Balayage can be applied as a more classic, full balayage throughout your hair to give you the lighter look all-around or it can also be done as partial, such as only around the face or the crown area of your hair. 

Classic Balayage highlights are traditionally just a few shades lighter than your base color, giving your hair natural depth and dimension. It blends seamlessly into your natural color that it is easy to maintain. As all bleached hair it still needs your attention and care at home to keep the hair moisturized and vibrant.

Highlighting with foils

The most used highlighting technique for the highest contrast and most intense effect. Highlights are created using foils to keep the bleach moist throughout the process and to capture the escaping heat from the scalp, thus providing maximum effect.

This technique follows more structured pattern compared to free-hand versions. Typically bleaching starts from the root area, resulting it to be touched up regularly for the grow-out.

Babylights

Babylights are accomplished the same way as foil highlights. The biggest difference is in the placement of the highlights and the amount of hair between the foils. Hair is sectioned very finely to achieve a naturally-lightened-by-the-sun effect. Babylights are strategically placed to blend naturally with your base color to give the hair a tiny bit of natural brightness.

Ombre

The French word translates to “shadow.” The ombre effect is usually more evident compared to Balayage highlights. It is traditionally done by lightening hair from the tips up to create a gradual horizontal fade to the length of the hair. The traditional outcome of Ombre is from the darkest root area down to the lightest tip of hair, but this can be altered vice versa for more dramatic look.

Illuminage

Classic Balayage technique is altered here, by focusing mainly to bleach the mid-shafts and ends of the hair sweeping the brush away from the crown area, leaving room for natural color. Focusing on highlighting the face-framing areas, the contrasts are soft and moderate for the outcome to be very natural, like sun-kissed effect.

Glossing

A hair gloss is a subtle coloring and conditioning treatment that infuses the hair with radiance and shine.

Glossing service is most beneficial in between bleaching sessions, for example, if your hair has been Balayaged, chances are, that there is no need to lift that effect for months. The tone of the color however will not last that long, so Glossing will come handy to tone out those brassy tones and refresh the color with a vibrant shine. It is perfect for blondes, reds and brunettes.

Tom Schevelin-Repnau